Age Matters

I always look forward to our monthly wine club tastings. Our February tasting, held last night, was especially noteworthy. The varietal theme was Amarone. Each member of the group brings what they feel to be a great bottle, representative of the varietal theme. I was quite happy to bring a '97 Ca' de Rocchi La Bastia. Others brought great bottles from the 2000, 2005 vintages. Much to everyone's great surprise the following wines were presented: '62 Bertani,'78 Villa Spada, '85 Remo Farina, '90 Acinum. Needless to say, I was quite anxious to try these "old timers." The 48 year old, 1962 Bertani was fantastic. Still showing vibrant red fruit, with fully integrated fine tannins, with almond on the balanced finish. I marveled at how good this wine was, considering it's age. The '78, '85 and '90 continued to amaze the group. The newer vintages, were very different in style. They were dark, full flavored and delicious.....but the undisputed winners were the "Vintage group." With age comes wisdom, and in the case of great Italian Amarone...a fabulous experience.

More for less

As I have written in other blogs, I am a big fan of great Chardonnay. A really good chardonnay is not only refreshing and light, it is complex and layered. I suppose there are chardonnays for the "occasion." The wine you are served when you walk up to a bar and ask for a glass of their "house" selection....OK..... but over chilled, dull and dripping with Oak. And of course you have the ubiquitous Yellow Tail, served in great volume at parties or cocktail hours. The rise in popularity of chardonnay in the U.S. saw winemakers who would hide many sins behind Oak. This continued until the consumer rebelled, and sought out better Chards with far less oak. It got to the point where any indication of Oak, was rejected. Tastes turned to lighter, fresher Sauvignon Blanc, fermented in Stainless steel. The only oak this wine ever sees is the surface of the bar or table on which it is served. The trend has continued and gave rise to "naked" or "unoaked" Chardonnay, such as 4 vines, or Mer Soliet Silver.

Happily, the developing palates of consumers, and the skills of great wine makers, have come together. Simply great Chardonnays are being made all over California, each reflective of its unique home or "terrior." Russian River, Sonoma, Santa Rita Hills, Santa Barbara, Anderson Valley and of course, Napa..... are challenging the best Frence Montrachet and Chablis. I have written of the best.....Aubert, Kistler, Kongsgaard....but these are mailing list only, and if you find them at auction, you pay $100 plus per bottle.....Pretty expensive for California Chardonnay. I have always contended that anyone can find and pay for great wine. The challenge if finding great wine at a great price. Well....I have found one that you need to find and buy....If you can. This wine is the 2006. Mount Eden Vineyards, Santa Cruz Mountains Chardonnay. Featured in this month's Wine Spectator, their review is as follows.

MOUNT EDEN

Chardonnay Santa Cruz Mountains 2006
Personal Wine List
Score: 96
Release Price: $48
Country: California
Region: Bay Area/Central Coast
Issue: Feb 28, 2010
Designation: Highly Recommended

Simply delicious, a rich, buttery style, delivering ripe, vivid and delicate peach, pear and honeydew melon fruit that's complex, concentrated and full-bodied Offers excellent length and depth. Creamy oak adds a touch of smoke and vanilla. The texture is silky. Drink now through 2016. 2,387 cases made. –JL

I have had two bottles, and can tell you that for $48.00, this wine is every bit the equal of the bottles that are more that twice the price. From the incredibly floral nose, to the beautifully balanced use of oak with ripe sweet fruit, this wine has it all. The sparkling acidity and long, layered finish tell you that this wine is meant to be enjoyed and savored by itself, or with your favorite seafood.......I know that $50. is still a ton to pay for a bottle of wine.....but, treat yourself. Prices will only go up from here.....Cheers

PS: If you cannot find this wine thru your local channel, contact Frank at Frank@frankswine,com (302) 429-1978

Red vs. White

It seems that most wine drinkers are divided into two camps.....Red and White. As a rule, a "White" wine drinker will not order or even try a red wine. They contend that red wine "gives me a headache," or that red wine is too tannic. Those in the opposing camp, feel that the only wine worth serious consideration is red. As in most things, neither extreme is correct. For those who sing the praises of whites, try a 2007 Cote du Rhone, or a Russian River Pinot Noir. The soft, smooth tannins, and bright red fruit bring an entirely new experience, but the familiar crisp acidity echoes Chardonnay, or the ubiquitous Pinot Gris. Those "Only Red" people, might sample a Viongier, New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, or a Santa Barbara Chardonnay. These wines are not only very refreshing, but provide layers of fruit and complexity with coating mouthfeel that normally comes only with Cabs or Zins. I continue to encourage everyone to get outside their normal "Box" and experience the vast diversity of wine. We are ready to publish our new webpage, so be on the lookout for us. Remember, "The enjoyment of wine is not found in what we already know, but in what we have yet to learn." Cheers!